Ffabulous Ffestiniog but bland Blaenau

One destination near the top of all our lists of places to visit this week was the Rheilfford Ffestiniog, or in English, the Ffestiniog Railway. So we could do the full tourist thing with our heads hanging out of the windows* (and also because the railway heads up into the mountains where it's usually cloudy), we felt we ought to do this on a sunny day if possible - and today was the day!

Of course the railway wasn't always a tourist attraction - originally it was built to transport slate from the mountains around Blaenau Ffestiniog down to the new (at the time) harbour at Porthmadog. The harbour was formed following the creation of a huge embankment across the Glaslyn estuary which diverted the course of the river, creating a deeper natural harbour which quickly led to the development of the town as a key port for the export of the slate.

The traditional methods of bringing the slate down from the mountains, by pack-mules and carts, were soon found to be insufficient, and the horse tramway which was soon built was quickly developed and extended into a narrow-gauge railway climbing over 700ft and extending almost 14 miles into the mountains. When the slate trade declined in the mid 20th century, the raiilway's future became uncertain, but with the help of volunteers, the railway was saved from closure and turned into the tourist attraction we see today. Latterly, another narrow-gauge railway, the Welsh Highland Railway, has been extended through the mountains from Caernarfon to meet the Ffestiniog at Porthmadog, a feat the Ffestiniog railway are especially proud of.

Don't be fooled into thinking this is a little tourist attraction for the kids,(well, yes OK it is... but) it's also a great deal more - the railway promotes itself as a viable service for passengers wishing to connect between the mainline rail services at Porthmadog and at Blaenau Ffestiniog. Perhaps its this aspect which has led to the railway offering buffet facilities en route, and whilst some of the carriages are more traditional (well, basic), others are a good deal more comfortable, offering first class travel for an extra £4.

With an assurance that there were cafes and refreshments at the other end of the line, we happily paid our (rather expensive £17) fares for the full journey, and after many pictures at Porthmadog station, we eventually set off. Along the way we crossed the wide estuary then began the steady climb through several pretty villages, eventually progressing up the valley side with spectacular views over the Afon Dwyryd, near the station at Penrhyn.

With sheer drops frequently below us, we continued the climb towards the half-way point at a picturesque station called Tan y Bwlch (meaning 'Under the Pass'), overlooking a lake known as Llyn Mair. From here, the line continues its ascent to the railway's unique feature, the spiral at Dduallt (Black hill). Here, the railway breaks away from its original line to double back on itself, enabling it to gain an extra 35ft in height, the only such spiral in the UK. This is necessary to skirt round the reservoir at the modern hydro-electric power station near Tanygrisiau, which was built when the railway was on its knees in the late 1950s.

From Tanygrisiau, the railway levels off to return to its original route into Blaenau, where the slate roofs on all the houses, it has to be said, are immaculate. Sadly, this is the only compliment that can be paid to Blaenau, which was, basically, closed. This could have been because it was Sunday, which appears to be a more relaxed day in North Wales than back at home, but even so Bleanau was like a ghost town. We tried the cafe just opposite the station, only to discover that the chef had downed tools in a fit of pique and was refusing to cook or make anything - even a sandwich! With no other options, we ended up in a nearby Spar to buy a dried up roll each and a bag of crips, which we ended up eating back on the station platform as there wasn't really anywhere better. Even though the sun was out, there was a chill wind blowing across the platform which we had to put up with until the next train arrived - about one and a half hours later! In fairness, the slate mines at Blaenau are supposedly worth a look, but we weren't particularly in the mood.

The journey back to Porthmadog was as delightful as the ride up to Blaenau, but as we reached the station at Tanygrisiau and spotted the cafe, we kicked ourselves for not getting off the train here, enjoying a bite to eat, then taking the recommended walk through the countryside downhill for a couple of miles to the next station at Dduallt. If we ever return, then this is most definately what we'll do.

Well, the final stop disappointed, but as the old proverb says its not the destination that makes the journey worthwhile, and this was certainly true today!






* Beware that if you take a trip on the railway and hang your head out of the window, then you risk doing an impression of Vyvyan from the Young Ones (apologies if easily offended). Some of the tunnels on this little railway have literally inches of room either side - so you look out of the windows at your own risk!